Garment patterns and weaves are often overlooked components of men's fashion – something I've often noticed is that many gentlemen seem to only appreciate texture and patterning when it is mentioned by a keener eye.
It is my belief that understanding how to tell the difference between patterns and weaves as well as how to match them properly is important in order to compose a sharper and more appropriate ensemble.
What is Herringbone? What Do You Match with Herringbone Garments?
Herringbone is a chevron-like weave or patterning, named so as it resembles the bone structure of a herring. It is typically comprised of black and another colour – most commonly brown, blue, grey, or white.
Herringbone is most commonly found as the weave on casual sportcoats or blazers. When wearing a herringbone weave blazer, a solid coloured collared shirt is called for – normally of the shade matching the accent colour of the jacket, but black to match the base colour of the herringbone weave is also acceptable.
Tonal herringbone or chevron patterned shirts are also somewhat common, producing a slight and subtle effect. These shirts are typically worn without a tie – or at least a solid, striking tie to offset the pattern – and with a solid coloured jacket. I advise against mixing and matching two different grades of herringbone weave, as they will always clash, causing you to look very awkward.
What is Houndstooth? How Do You Match Houndstooth Garments?
Houndstooth is a staggered patterning that resembles skewed diamonds, pinwheels, or as the name suggests, the tooth of a hound. Typically presented in the motif as black pinwheels on a field of white fabric, modern use of houndstooth also substitutes new colours in lieu of both the base as well as the accent colours.
Houndstooth is a loud design – even louder than herringbone in some cases. In light of this, my advice is to always attempt to stick within the exact colours suggested by the two tones (duotone) of the garment in question. Many men's blazers present a less bold version of the houndstooth pattern – for example a navy blazer with a black houndstooth patterning or a brown sportcoat with a burgundy pinwheel pattern. By staying true to the initial base colour of the navy blazer – a french blue dress shirt might fit the bill perfectly; in the second instance, I would suggest either a wine hued, or sand coloured, shirt.
The rule of thumb when pairing clothes bearing a houndstooth pattern to other accessories and garments is to always stay very close to the base colours, or at the very least to pay attention to the accenting pinwheel colours. Contrasting colours never work with houndstooth, and risk the chance of creating a clownish impression.
Nicholas Morine - Nicholas Morine Bachelor of Arts, English Language & Literature Master of Philosophy, Humanities (Candidate) Memorial University ...
